The Gimblett Road vineyard was purchased as bare land in 1990 and 1.8 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon was planted in 1991. This was followed by 2 hectares of Merlot, and 1 hectare Malbec. The soils are of alluvial origin with 50 cm of sandy silt loam over river gravels. The vineyard is located in the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowing District. This strictly defined area is 800 hectares of gravely soils laid down by the old Ngaruroro River, which were exposed after a huge flood in the 1870's. The area is up to three degrees Celsius warmer during the day in summer and autumn, compared with most other areas in Hawke's Bay. The evenings are also warmer because of thermal conductivity in the stony soils. The extra summer and autumn heat and the contribution from the soils puts the terroir of Gimblett Gravels alongside some of the world's famous wine regions, with respect to the red Bordeaux varieties.
Organic methods were chosen in the beginning and the property became Hawke's Bays first certified organic vineyard, with the 1997 vintage being Hawke's Bays first certified organic wine. People who said it could not be done or that it would restrict quality made the additional organic 'challenge' even more important. As the years go by, I find great personal satisfaction in being able to consistently produce top quality wines using organic methods. Chemicals are not used in vineyards for the direct benefit of wine quality. It is only for the supposed protection from pests and diseases. Therefore if pests are kept in check and protection from disease is achieved with other methods, surely wine quality can only be better with its absence. There are four areas of vineyard management that require different approaches -weeds, pests, fungal disease and nutrition.
Weeds can be physically controlled by cultivation or mowing. There are only three times in the year where weed growth will affect the vines performance. It will affect plant growth (cane and root) prior to flowering and a month either side of harvest. It will reduce crop size between flowering and verasion. If high rainfall is causing problems with vigour, surely this would be a time when weed growth would help - odd concept, but I have let grass and weeds grow at times, putting up with the usual comments about the 'appearance.' The bottom line is wine quality and that relates to berry size, as in, smaller the better. The conventional view that a vineyard should be clean and tidy (i.e. short grass or no grass) is like many superficial approaches and pays no respect to the real goal. Chemicals have a detrimental affect in terms of soil health. They kill the animal life in the soil, altering the natural balance. Worms, bugs and the microbial activity giving life to the soil are no longer present. The soil is dead, becoming deficient in nutrients - certainly not a long term, sustainable option. I have heard many excuses for chemical use but I am much happier not needing them. On the subject of soil health there is a reason to have plants between the rows. Soil structure is improved with taproots as they bring nutrients to the surface and break up the soil. Drainage is also improved. Flowering plants in the vineyard also attract predator insects and this takes us to the next subject.
Pest control is achieved by providing a home and nectar for the relevant predators. Each insect will have host plants that provide a habitat or food and the easiest solution is to plant a mixture of wildflowers down every fifth row. Most pesticides are non selective and kill the predators as well as the pests. The problem here is that the predators (eg parasitic wasps and ladybirds) will be wiped out but the pests that hide in the bark and canopy will often survive (my foes - mealy bug and leaf roll caterpillar respectively) I have found that creating a natural balance is far more effective and much easier. No chemical regime is totally effective anyway and surely the absence of chemicals is a benefit - remember pesticides are sprayed directly onto the fruit.
Disease prevention has been the biggest challenge. Three aspects of management here are plant strength, prevention and competition. The plant has its own immune system, which can be bolstered. The right sprays at the right time can improve this. Strengthening the berry skin is very important, as this is where the fungal disease botrytis will cause the most damage. A strong berry skin is also helpful in terms of wine quality as this is where the colour and flavour of the wine comes from, (especially important for red wine.) A canopy that is open and airy will not become a humid environment. Limiting humidity is the best form of prevention. Leaf plucking along the fruit zone will also let in sunlight and sprays will be more effective. Sprays designed as fungal deterrents (using plant oils), will inhibit fungal activity in general. As a competitive approach the concept of using competitive fungi to fight off botrytis can be achieved using compost teas. The real joy of these organic alternatives is that they can be used right up to harvest. Chemicals have so called withholding periods and are not supposed to be used in the weeks prior to harvest. It is this time that is often the most crucial, especially if rain alternates with sunshine. (Water + heat = humidity)
Nutrition - soil and plant health, under conventional regimes, are addressed with artificial fertilizers and quick hit nutrient sprays but with an organic approach a long-term sustainable view is taken. Natural rock phosphates like dolomite and gypsum are used as soil fertilizers. Seaweed, compost teas and natural elements are sprayed as a foliar feed. Compost is the organic growers main nutritional focus as this gives a complete, balanced solution to soil health. There is a difference with quality winegrowing that sets it apart from most organic farms. Wine quality diminishes with an increase in crop (and berry) size. It is therefore not a hugely fertile, highly productive result that we are looking for. A balanced soil with growth on the verge of stress is what gives the best results. This is best achieved in a marginal, free draining soil such as the type found in the Gimblett Road region.
Biodynamic farming methods are often used by organic growers. The writings of Rudolf Steiner in the 1920's were a reaction to the introduction of chemicals in farming. Because his ideas are based on astrology there are unfortunately many sceptics. I have found there to be logical explanations for many of his concepts and the bottom line is if it works, use it. Is the most likely sceptic not a Virgo? (Using astrology to justify itself, you may say. Virgo - methodical, logical, pedantic). I initially thought it strange that as a Virgo, I would be accepting of what some thought of as 'fluffy ideas.' However the astrological aspects are all based on mathematical logic and the physical movements of the planets. Understanding why or how something works is not a requirement for its use, especially these days with technology looking more and more like magic. The astrological calendar is very useful with regards to the timing of work, especially spraying. There are five other New Zealand wine producers who follow these methods (links page) and many overseas. Some very noteworthy brands in Europe and California have been quietly using Biodynamic methods for some time. The basic decision is whether the vineyard management is to be fighting pests and disease or working with nature - two distinctly different approaches. I think wine quality and peace of mind have been well served by the latter. Kingsley Tobin Organic Winegrower
Critical Acclaim
Jancis Robinson The Financial Times, London, -Published: Nov.16th. 2001. "This producer makes particularly impressive Bordeaux-style reds."
Bob Campbell "Kingsley Estate is an organic winery that should lay to rest any suspicion that organic methods must always compromise wine quality. This small producer has made a series of spectacular red wines from a six hectare Gimblett Road vineyard. I count myself lucky to have half a dozen bottles of Kingsley Estate 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon in my cellar - surely one of New Zealand's best-ever examples of the variety." ..........."The Kingsley Estate label can be relied upon to consistently deliver absolutely top red wine; they are always concentrated, always ripe and, typically, show more weight and richness than I expect to find in reds from the Gimblett Road district."
Keith Stewart The NZ Listener ."remarkable Bordeaux variety reds " Sommnet.com....."Very small Hawkes Bay estate with a feeling for fine, deep flavoured, supple reds that have the elegance of aristocrats."
James Halliday Weekend Australian - 23, November, 2002 ....." Kingsley Tobin has been making outstanding but hard-to-get wines for some years now."
Monty Waldin (UK) "The quality of Tobin's long-term vineyard planning and annual vineyard management is immediately apparent in his Cabernet Sauvignon red wines. Tobin's Cabernets have presence and depth, ..... and taste of plum, soft black berry, black currant, and mint with an authentic touch of earthiness, with none of the herbaceousness one is told to expect in New Zealand Cabernet."
